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Watson's Barrels & Wine Making SuppliesWatson's Barrels & Wine Making Supplies
Watson's Barrels & Wine Making SuppliesWatson's Barrels & Wine Making Supplies
  • Home
  • About
    • About Our Vineyard
    • Viticultural Practices
  • Shop
    • Shop By Category
    • Shop By Product List
    • Acids & BalancesWine/Grape Must Adjustments: A number of additives are available that can be used to improve wine balance or quality. Major additions should generally be preceded by home trials and tasting of samples of the adjusted wines. Common improvements to grape must and wine include adjusting acidity and tannin levels. Tartaric Acid: Tartaric acid is the characteristic acid of grapes. Low acid grapes will benefit from tartaric addition; the wine will clear more readily and will keep and taste better. It should be added to any wine with a total acidity of less than 0.5%. As a rule of thumb, 1g per L will increase titratable acidity by about 0.1%.
    • Barrels, Oak Chips & RacksAll of our barrels have medium toast, unless other wise requested. We guarantee our barrels 100% against leakage.
    • Bottle Fillers
    • Carboys & ContainersTo avoid breakage, wash in cold water only.
    • Corks, Corkers & Pullers
    • Crusher/Destemmers
    • Enzymes/TanninsThese enzymes destroy the protective colloidal properties of pectins. Treated juices will settle better and fine and filter easier.
    • Europa Stainless FustisWe carry a wide variety of stainless steel fustis complete with valve. (dimensions height x diameter)
    • Fermentation Locks & Stoppers
    • Filters & Pads
    • Fining AgentsThe clarity, colour, odour, taste and stability of a wine can be significantly improved through fining. Fining involves the addition of a positively or negatively charged chemical agent to the wine to balance the charge of any suspended particles. The suspension will then agglomerate and settle out. The most frequently used fining agents are bentonite (aluminum silicate clay), activated carbon, gelatin, egg whites and PVPP (polyvinyl/polypyrrolidone). Many books on winemaking provide detailed instruction on the use of fining agents. Again, home trials on small volumes (100 to 200 ml) of wine are recommended.chromatography. Test takes about 10 hours.
    • Lab Equipment & Accessories
    • Malo-Lactic BacteriaMalo-lactic fermentation (MLF) is the bacterial conversion of malic acid to lactic acid. Wines which have undergone MLF are typically softer (less acidic). MLF with commercial cultures is desirable in reds and some white wines to enhance stability. Many wineries encourage MLF to prevent spontaneous fermentation by less desirable bacterial strains. It should be noted that MLF is inhibited where free SO2 levels exceed about 30 ppm. Ideal conditions for MLF are lower alcohol levels, pH above 3.3, free SO2 of less than 30 ppm and a temperature above 20 degrees Celsius.
    • Malo-Lactic Test KitsMalo-lactic fermentation (MLF) whereby malic acid is converted to lactic acid and carbon dioxide, can be evaluated in a semi-quantitative manner through paper chromatography. Test takes about 10 hours.
    • Presses
    • Replacement Parts
    • Stainless Tanks & StandsWe carry a wide variety of stainless steel tanks 18/10 (304), complete with adjustable, floating lids, pressure gauge and valve. (dimensions height x diameter x gasket).
    • Sulphur DioxideSulphur Dioxide (SO2): Sulphur dioxide inhibits yeast and bacterial growth and acts as an antioxidant in wine. These benefits are realized from the presence of molecular SO2 which occurs in free SO2. As a general rule, about one-half of the SO2 added to wine is present as free SO2, and the remainder occurs as bound SO2. Between 0.5 and 0.8 ppm of molecular SO2 is required to prevent spoilage and oxidation. It is important to note that the proportion of molecular SO2 in free SO2 decreases as the pH of the wine increases. The amount of free SO2 needed to achieve a molecular SO2 of 0.5 ppm and 0.8 ppm at various pH values is provided below: Free SO2 cannot be added directly to wine. Potassium metabisulphite (k, meta) contains about 57% total SO2, of which about 25 to 30% is free SO2. Campden tablets contain about 48% T SO2 or about 22-26% free SO2 Sulphur sticks which are burned, produce about 130 to 140% SO2 by weight. The proportion of free SO2 in total SO2, is also pH dependent with a greater percent available at lower pH. The following calculation can be used to estimate the amount of potassium…
    • Test KitsSO2 Test Kit: CHEMetricsTM produces an easy to use kit for the measurement of free SO2 based on the Ripper methods.
    • Wine Bottles & Racks
    • Wine Pumps
    • Wine YeastWe strongly endorse the use of a commercial wine yeast in the fermentation of a grape juice. These wine yeasts have been carefully cultured to accentuate positive fermentation properties such as more efficient sugar-alcohol conversion, low hydrogen sulphide production, compact lees and SO2 tolerance. We recommend the addition of a commercial nutrient to reduce the likelihood of a stuck or sluggish fermentation and to minimize the production of sulphide (from nutrient deficiency). Nutrients should be added prior to the start of fermentation. For information and characteristics of each yeast, please visit www.lallemandwine.com.
    • Winemaking BooksNumerous books have been written on the subject of winemaking. We have selected a short list of books which we consider to be the best references for the amateur wine maker.
    • Yeast Nutrients
  • Order Juice
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  • Grapeline
  • Resources
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HELPFUL TIPS

Succeed In Wine Making

Malolactic Fermentation

For 2.5 g package to inoculate 250 L.
Rehydrate package in 1 cup of clean chloride free room temperature water for a maximum of 15 minutes. Add the suspension to the wine to be fermented. Mix the wine gently by stirring.

Optimalo Addition
Suspend in a small amount of water or wine and add directly to the wine at the same time as the malolactic culture. DO NOT add to the rehydration water.

Malolactic FermentationMalolactic Fermentation PDF Download

Supplies Checklist

  • Fresh Metabisulfite
  • Fermaid
  • Go-Ferm
  • Corks
  • Filter Pads
  • Citric Acid
  • Tartaric Acid
  • Chloro Clean
  • Chemetrics SO2 Test Kit
  • Phenolphthalein Indicator Solution
  • Sodium Hydroxide
  • Sparkolloid Chromatography Solvent

Yeast SuppliesSupplies Checklist

YeastRecommendations For a Yeast Starter

  1. Do not add any metabisulphite prior to fermentation.
  2. While your juice/must is warming up to room temperature a yeast starter should be prepared.
  3. These directions are for one pail of juice/must and should be multiplied accordingly.
  4. Add 250 ml of warm water (20C) to a large mouth bowl.
  5. Add 5g of “go-ferm” and stir in.
  6. Sprinkle 5g of yeast on top and wait 5-10 minutes.
  7. Stir in and add 250ml of 50/50 mix (equal parts of juice and water combined to 20C).
  8. Wait one hour and stir.
  9. Slowly pour into room temperature juice/must trying to keep the yeast starter together.
  10. When fermentation starts (usually 2 days later) then add 5g of “fermaid.”

Note: We recommend punching the cap on reds at least twice daily. If you notice a rotten egg smell then add DAP. Acid and or sugar adjustments should be done before yeast inoculation.

D.A.P. Add 3-5g/23L pail of DAP if H2S is present.

YeastRecommedations For a Yeast Starter

KEVINS RED WINE

This is how I make the red wine that our family enjoys.

No surprise that I use a cultured yeast and will bounce around between BM45, D254, Maurvin B, CSM, and Alchemy 4 depending on what I have available and the season.  I also use Go ferm, Fermaid and optired with DAP on hand in case I smell some H2S.  I add 2g/l of untoasted oak chips to bind with any green tannins and adjust TA to about 6.5 (depending on pH).  I then ferment for 10 days.  I should say that I was fortunate to learn red wine making from a very good family friend as well as Inniskillin founder Dr. Karl Kaiser.  Karl insisted on a 10 day ferment (not 9 and not 11).  After ferment I press and then let rest for a couple of weeks to settle, followed by a racking and addition of 4-5 g/L toasted oak chips, MLB and optimalo (added separately).  The wine is stored at 20C for at least 1 monh until MLF is finished.  I then rack off chips and sediment and add at least 50ppm FRESH KMS (5g/50L).  I then age the wine in barrels either neutral or new.  If I am using new barrels then I will not add the toasted oak chips during MLF.  Age as long as possible, making sure barrels are full and monitor the free sulphite levels.

I use mother nature in January to cold stabilize all our wines by placing them in -3C temps for about 10-14 days and then back to 5-10 C storage.

Prior to bottling I adjust the acidity in reds to KK target #s of 3.5 pH and 5.55 TA.

Remember that adding acid to finished wine is difficult so if needed I add prior to ferment.  If I need to strip some TA then I prefer a few small adjustments to keep an eye on pH (which usually increases with the TA reductions).

 

KEVINS WHITE WINE

This is how I make our family’s white wines.

Like red wine I use a cultured yeast depending on the variety and add 1g/L DAP, goferm, fermaid (as per “yeast starter” tips).

Our juice is very clean so nutrient is a must to prevent H2S.

I ferment at cool tempertures and aim for a very long slow ferment. I also ferment until completely dry.  After fermentation is complete I let rest for a couple of weeks and then rack and add at least 50 ppm FRESH KMS (unless I plan on MLF on a batch).  I then wait for January to cold stabilize (noted in the red wine notes above) as well as bentonite addition of approx. .9g/L (depending on test).  After cold stabilized I return wine to 5-10 C storage and rack off bentonite in 3-4 weeks.  I then filter the wine to polish.  Prior to April bottling.  I may add 2-3 g/L of dextrose and or some arabica gum if I feel it softens the wine.  If sugar is added then sorbate will be needed as well.  Free KMS is checked and wine is ready for bottling.

 

These notes are here to help you in your winemaking and are by no means the only way to make wine.  As an extreme, you can leave your pail in the fall sun and eventually it will be wine, but please don’t share with us.  Wine making is a hobby and understanding and “feeling” the stages of change and development  will very much add to the fun.  We hope that this helps you.

 

The Watsons

 

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Watson's Barrels and Wine Making Supplies